Dress shirt collar pattern
Men's Shirt Sew-Along 12 -- A new collar for Negroni: PART 2Friends, yesterday I discussed how to create a new facing and front button placket for the Negroni shirt pattern. We are turning the casual Negroni shirt into a traditional dress shirt. Now that you know how to draft your right front facing and left front button placket, it's time to address the collar stand and collar.
Our goals for today are:
1. Draft collar stand and collar pattern pieces
2. Attach yokes to shirt using the "burrito method"
3. Staystitch neckline and measure
1. There are a number of ways to draft a collar stand and collar: 1) You can start from scratch and, using various formulas found in books like David Coffin's Shirtmaking, draft your own; 2) You can find a shirt with a collar stand and collar you like, trace these onto pattern paper and add seam allowances; or 3) You can choose the collar stand and collar pieces from a commercial dress shirt pattern you already own.
I am going to focus on #2.
I choose a Brooks Brothers shirt whose collar fits comfortably. I trace it.
There are a few ways to do this. You can use tracing paper and a tracing wheel. I found I had to press down very hard to do this successfully, given the thickness of my collar seams. (Should I have used a needle-pointed wheel?) You only have to trace half the collar and collar stand (We'll cut these on the fold).
The piece you trace may end up being slightly longer or shorter than what you'll need from Negroni, but we'll take that into account when we cut our fabric.
Now I only need to add seam allowances.
Another way to do this is to trace from above with tracing paper and a marker. I found this much easier than using the tracing wheel. Just be sure your pen doesn't bleed onto your shirt, please. Make sure your shirt pieces are laying flat and that you're tracing accurately.
After you're done, compare your traced stand and collar to the original. Is the shape the same? If not, make corrections.
There are a few points you want to mark on collar the stand pattern piece: 1) the center front line (marked cf in my photo), 2) The point where collar stand and collar meet, and 3) the point where collar stand and front placket meet (this matters on the left side more than the right).
For those of you unfamiliar with stands and collars, it might also be helpful to mark on each pattern piece which is the top edge (attached to the collar), and which is the bottom (attached to the neckline).
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I agree2003-06-12 12:45:32 by it_a_matter_of_taste
I use Burberry as an accessory such as a purse, umbrella, or a shirt with a collar done in it. I once saw a 20ish woman wearing flowing taffeta evening dress completely done in the Nova Check plaid and to my surprise it looked great on her.
As far as it being "out" it is a classic and classics are never out. Burberry HQ is not really happy about the faddishness of the pattern or its new found place in the world of hip hop (lil' Kim). Over the past few years they have made efforts to greatly reduce the amount of plaid used in their lines.It's really just their trademark and not what they are all about
Some ideas2003-06-01 11:09:38 by Eshta
Definiely basics you can build on. The rule of thumb is to base your wardrobe on neutral colors (such as white, camel, black, gray, chocolate or navy), then spice up your outfits with colorful pieces.
A good twinset or two (a lightweight tank sweater with a matching cardigan) in flattering colors will go well with pants or skirts and goes from day to evening quickly by removing the sweater and adding a sexier jewelry/bag/shoes.
A little black dress.
A little red (or purple or cobalt or emerald or whatever) dress for when you know everyone else in the room will be wearing a little black dress
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